Angling Publications - Index

Angling Publications - may2008 - Index

JEFF EDVALDS PHOTO
HOOK: Size 10 to 18. Mustad
C67S, Daiichi 1130, Eagle
Claw LO55 or TMC 2487
THREAD: Olive. Gudebrod
BCS #33, UNI-Thread Olive
Dun or Danville 901
TAIL: Pheasant tail fibers
Green D-Mon CDC Dun
RIB: Gold wire
BODY: Olive and peacock
dubbing mix
SHELLBACK: Pearl
Flashabou
HACKLE: Brown
HEAD: Gold bead
Eric Rauch from La Crosse, Wisconsin recently sent us
this easy-to-tie, but very effective fly. His note included
this comment, “This pattern has now become my number
one producer when in an area where scuds, caddis or both
are found. I have found it to be successful from the spring
creeks of Wisconsin, to the Snake River in my home state of
Nebraska, to the Green River of Utah.” Personally, we like
to fish it under a parachute like Steve’s Day Saver, one of the
other patterns appearing in this issue.
1 Slip a gold bead onto the hook and clamp the hook in the
vise. Place a drop of Krazy Glue on the shank close to the eye
and slip the bead forward, anchoring it in place. Attach the
thread behind the bead and bind a strand of gold wire to the
hook while wrapping to the back of the shank.
2 Tie on several strands of pheasant tail fibers to form
a tail half as long as the hook while wrapping forward
to meet the bead. Trim off the waste fibers. Select one
strand of pearl Flashabou and tie it to the top of the
hook while wrapping to the end of the shank. Temporarily
store it in the material spring to use in the next step.
3 Apply dubbing to the thread, then wrap a body that covers
the area behind the bead. Pull the strand of Flashabou over
the body to form a shellback and anchor it in place. Wrap
the wire rib over the shellback to further hold it in position.
Trim off any remaining waste from both materials.
4 Strip the fuzzy fibers from the base of a brown hackle feather
and tie it in place behind the bead. Wrap a several-turn collar, tie
it off and trim the excess. Wrap a whip-finish, trim the thread
from the hook and apply head cement to complete the fly.
HOOK: Size 12 to 18.
Swedish Dry-Fly Hook
THREAD: Gray. Gudebrod
BCS #108, UNI-Thread
Gray or Danville 36
TAIL & EXTENDED BODY:
Mallard flank feather
WING: CDC post
HACKLE: Grizzly
Our good friend, Don McFarland, from Boise, Idaho was
part of a group of people who attended a fly-tying fundraiser
at our home last month. During the potluck dinner afterward,
while we were enjoying a piece of his delicious slow-roasted
brisket, we asked him what he had been tying that day. He
slipped us the beautiful, delicate pattern you see here. It was
so gorgeous we were tempted to keep it in our own collection.
In the end, though, we sent it to Fly Fish America so all
of you could enjoy it as well.
1 Place the hook in the vise tilted up slightly to more easily
access the “odd bend” in the shank just behind the eye. Attach
the tying thread to this position, tie on a grizzly hackle
feather, and wrap it around the hook several turns. Tie it off
and trim the excess. (Even though this hackle is around the
hook it will sit in the surface film like a parachute because
the weight of the bare hook will tilt the fly’s point down so
the hackle will be positioned across the top of the water).
2 Advance the thread in front of the hackle, which will
move it onto the part of the hook that is angled slightly
downward. Stroke back the fibers on a mallard flank feather
and tie the fibers to the hook to form an extended body.
Trim away the waste ends.
3 Trim away the excess part of the feather, leaving four fibers
to form a divided tail, two per side. Tie a CDC feather onto
the hook close to the eye to form a clump-style wing and trim
any waste material. Whip-finish and trim off the thread.
4 Apply head cement to complete the fly. If you don’t have
a Swedish Dry Fly Hook (they can be hard to find) then just
use a standard dry fly hook and tie all the materials on the
shank directly behind the eye. The weight of the bare hook
bend will tilt the fly in the water into the correct position.
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