http://www.oceanwaves.com/http://www.fisknat.com/Angling Publications - IndexAngling Publications - Fly Fish America - September 2007 Issue - Index60
Craw Bouncer
HOOK: Size 2 to 8. Mustad 9672, Daiichi
1720, Eagle Claw LO58, or TMC 5263
THREAD: Pink
KEEL: Monofilament (20 lb.), brass &
plastic beads
ANTENNAE: Black Krystal Flash
We always look forward to attending the West Coast fly-fishing shows each winter
for a number of reasons, the most important being that our friend Steve Duckett will
be there. We never know what great new "invention? he will show us, but rest assured,
Steve always has something of interest. He didn't disappoint us this past winter when
he shared the Craw Bouncer with us. It's a great pattern!
1 The claws are constructed out of two short sections of lacing into which a bobbin
threader is inserted. Use the threader to "pull through? a tuft of fur on the hide and a few
strands of red and green Flashabou. When complete, each claw is a "puff? of fur accented
with Flashabou sticking out of one end of each piece of lacing. Set them aside for now.
HOOK: Size 8 to 16. Mustad 9672,
38941; Daiichi 1720; Eagle Claw LO58;
or TMC 5263.
THREAD: Rusty brown. Gudebrod BCS #66,
UNI-Thread Rusty Brown, or Danville 76
MOUTHPARTS: Short section of gray
rabbit strip
HEAD: Tan chenille
CLAWS: Pony Bead Lacing, small fur
strip, red & green Flashabou
BODY: Tan chenille
Millers River
Nymph
RIB: Embossed gold tinsel, 1/16 inch
BODY: Poly yarn, light yellow
HACKLE: Furnace, collar style
BEAD: Gold
HEAD: Thread
Stephen Noel frequently visits the Lower Forty Outfitters (508-752-4004) near his
home in Boylston, Massachusetts. He designed this fly for the brown trout in the nearby
Millers River. We think it looks great, and especially like the contrast between the rib
and the body material.
1 Select a gold bead sized to fit the hook, slip it over the point, and onto the shank.
Mount the hook in the vise, slide the bead forward so it is tight against the eye, and
attach the tying thread behind it. Wrap to the end of the shank, then forward again to
a point directly behind the bead. Trim off the waste thread.